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ISRAEL 6: Zippori Nat'l Park and Daliyat al-Karmel, Oct. 17, 2009

Thanks to Eli, Nurit, and Eden for taking me to Zippori. A mainly Jewish Zippori developed during the Hasmonaen and Herodian periods (1st century BCE). After the death of Herod the Great in 4 BCE, the citizens rebelled. The Roman army destroyed the city and sold many of its inhabitants into slavery. Having learned from the past, the remaining citizens did not join the revolt against Rome in 66 CE. Instead, they opened the city gates to the Roman legions and the city was spared. Following destruction of the second temple in 70 CE, Zippori became a center of Jewish learning. In approximately 200, Rabbi Yehuda Hanasi, one of the compilers of the Mishnah, moved to Zippori along with the Sanhedrin, the highest Jewish religious court. The city continued to flourish in the Byzantine period. Under Crusader rule during the 12th century, a small citadel and church were built on the city's hilltop. Later, an Arab village (Saffuriyeh) was built on the ruins of the ancient city. During the Arab uprising of 1936-39 and in 1948, the village housed Arab squads operating against Jewish settlements. Saffuriyeh was conquered and destroyed during Israel’s war of independence. In 1949 Moshav Zippori was founded, using the city’s original name.

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  • 1-Location map. Tzippori National Park (the middle square) is halfway between Haifa (square, top left) and Tiberias (square on the right). To date, more than 40 mosaics have been recovered from Hellenistic, Judean, Roman, Byzantine, and Crusader periods.

    1-Location map. Tzippori National Park (the middle square) is halfway between Haifa (square, top left) and Tiberias (square on the right). To date, more than 40 mosaics have been recovered from Hellenistic, Judean, Roman, Byzantine, and Crusader periods.

  • 2-During the Roman period, Tzippori became a most important city and served as capital of Galilee. The name Tzippori may have come from the Hebrew for 'bird,' tsippor, perhaps because of the bird's-eye view the hilltop. This map of the Park is at the same scale as the next (satellite) image.

    2-During the Roman period, Tzippori became a most important city and served as capital of Galilee. The name Tzippori may have come from the Hebrew for 'bird,' tsippor, perhaps because of the bird's-eye view the hilltop. This map of the Park is at the same scale as the next (satellite) image.

  • 3-Satellite image of Tzippori at roughly the same scale as the previous plan image (compare the roads). The city—destroyed by earthquake in 363, but rebuilt soon afterwards—retainied its importance in the greater Jewish community of the Galilee until at least 500 CE. Jews, pagan Romans, and Christians lived peacefully alongside one another during the Byzantine period.

    3-Satellite image of Tzippori at roughly the same scale as the previous plan image (compare the roads). The city—destroyed by earthquake in 363, but rebuilt soon afterwards—retainied its importance in the greater Jewish community of the Galilee until at least 500 CE. Jews, pagan Romans, and Christians lived peacefully alongside one another during the Byzantine period.

  • 4-Mosaic floor (22 ft x 20 ft) recovered in a 5th century CE public building (ground floor area of 16,000 sq. ft.). Depicts celebrations for the rise of the Nile River water to its peak. Visible at top is a Nilometer, which measured the height of the water and determined the tax rate for that year. The man standing on the woman’s shoulders is engraving the number IZ (17)—the height of the water (which runs across the panel below the Nilometer). Below the water, horsemen head to Alexandria with the good news. At lower right is the 3rd century CE Pompeii Column.

    4-Mosaic floor (22 ft x 20 ft) recovered in a 5th century CE public building (ground floor area of 16,000 sq. ft.). Depicts celebrations for the rise of the Nile River water to its peak. Visible at top is a Nilometer, which measured the height of the water and determined the tax rate for that year. The man standing on the woman’s shoulders is engraving the number IZ (17)—the height of the water (which runs across the panel below the Nilometer). Below the water, horsemen head to Alexandria with the good news. At lower right is the 3rd century CE Pompeii Column.

  • 5-A section of the “Nile” mosaic showing strong animals attacking weaker ones, including a panther pouncing on a deer. The symbolism is unclear. There are no Jewish or Christian symbols in this building; all are pagan.

    5-A section of the “Nile” mosaic showing strong animals attacking weaker ones, including a panther pouncing on a deer. The symbolism is unclear. There are no Jewish or Christian symbols in this building; all are pagan.

  • 6-In the upper left of the "Nile" mosaic, a reclining female—identified with Egypt in Greek letters—holds a cornucopia of fruit in one hand, the other arm rests on a basket of fruits.

    6-In the upper left of the "Nile" mosaic, a reclining female—identified with Egypt in Greek letters—holds a cornucopia of fruit in one hand, the other arm rests on a basket of fruits.

  • 7-A centaur (“one who rounds up bulls”) is half man and half horse. This centaur is holding a shield or dish inscribed “Helpful God” in Greek.

    7-A centaur (“one who rounds up bulls”) is half man and half horse. This centaur is holding a shield or dish inscribed “Helpful God” in Greek.

  • 8-Geometric floor pattern

    8-Geometric floor pattern

  • 9-Last photo from the Nile mosaic: An Amazon—one of several in a hunting scene.

    9-Last photo from the Nile mosaic: An Amazon—one of several in a hunting scene.

  • 10-Interior of Tzippori Synagogue, late fifth century. The town's Christian population was increasing; Jewish population was decreasing. The building is just 68 ft. long by 26 ft. wide—the narrowest synagogue in ancient Israel. On the floor between the columns are inscribed medallions. To the left of the columns is a central hall with a mosaic floor divided into seven rectangular frames, the zodiac at its center.

    10-Interior of Tzippori Synagogue, late fifth century. The town's Christian population was increasing; Jewish population was decreasing. The building is just 68 ft. long by 26 ft. wide—the narrowest synagogue in ancient Israel. On the floor between the columns are inscribed medallions. To the left of the columns is a central hall with a mosaic floor divided into seven rectangular frames, the zodiac at its center.

  • 11-Synagogue floor. One of the medallions between the columns is inscribed: "Zachur l'tov, Yudan bar Yitzchak Hacohen..." ("May he be remembered for good, Yudan, son of Isaac the Priest, and Paregri his daughter. Amen Amen.")

    11-Synagogue floor. One of the medallions between the columns is inscribed: "Zachur l'tov, Yudan bar Yitzchak Hacohen..." ("May he be remembered for good, Yudan, son of Isaac the Priest, and Paregri his daughter. Amen Amen.")

  • 12-Diagram of the Synagogue's mosaic floor, which is divided into seven parts. Near the entrance (bottom of image), angels are visiting Sarah. Next section (up) shows the binding of Isaac. Then a large Zodiac with the names of the months in Hebrew. Helios sits in the middle, in his sun chariot. In the last (top) section, two lions flank a wreath, their paws on the head of an ox.

    12-Diagram of the Synagogue's mosaic floor, which is divided into seven parts. Near the entrance (bottom of image), angels are visiting Sarah. Next section (up) shows the binding of Isaac. Then a large Zodiac with the names of the months in Hebrew. Helios sits in the middle, in his sun chariot. In the last (top) section, two lions flank a wreath, their paws on the head of an ox.

  • 13-Synagogue floor. From the sixth panel, facade of a six-columned building (probably representing the Temple), an incense shovel below, and a three-legged menorah.

    13-Synagogue floor. From the sixth panel, facade of a six-columned building (probably representing the Temple), an incense shovel below, and a three-legged menorah.

  • 14-Synagogue floor. From the second panel, the binding of Isaac—the two servants wait for Abraham.

    14-Synagogue floor. From the second panel, the binding of Isaac—the two servants wait for Abraham.

  • 15-Synagogue floor. A segment of the central Zodiac, showing Gemini.

    15-Synagogue floor. A segment of the central Zodiac, showing Gemini.

  • 16-Eden at Tzippori. She just sipped some water. It was a very hot day (104 F), even in the shade and on this hill with a bit of a breeze.

    16-Eden at Tzippori. She just sipped some water. It was a very hot day (104 F), even in the shade and on this hill with a bit of a breeze.

  • 17-Looking from the ancient city toward Moshav Tzippori, built on the site of the former Arab village of Saffuriyeh.

    17-Looking from the ancient city toward Moshav Tzippori, built on the site of the former Arab village of Saffuriyeh.

  • 18-Roman villa (artist's sketch) built around 200 CE; destroyed by earthquake, 363. The villa is in the traditional form, with seats arranged in a U-shape around a mosaic floor. The house contains one of the most famous mosaics in Israel (next photo).

    18-Roman villa (artist's sketch) built around 200 CE; destroyed by earthquake, 363. The villa is in the traditional form, with seats arranged in a U-shape around a mosaic floor. The house contains one of the most famous mosaics in Israel (next photo).

  • 19-"Madonna of the Galilee"—the centerpiece of the mosaic floor in the Roman Villa—is a young woman, rendered more life-like and more detailed than most mosaics (note the shading and blush of her cheeks).

    19-"Madonna of the Galilee"—the centerpiece of the mosaic floor in the Roman Villa—is a young woman, rendered more life-like and more detailed than most mosaics (note the shading and blush of her cheeks).

  • 20-Nurit in the Citadel. The 12th century Crusader/Ottoman Citadel was built on an earlier Byzantine foundation, on the hilltop.

    20-Nurit in the Citadel. The 12th century Crusader/Ottoman Citadel was built on an earlier Byzantine foundation, on the hilltop.

  • 21-View from the Citadel to Moshav Tzippori (foreground) and the Arab village of Hosha'Aya (above and behind). You can't sense the 104 degree heat from this photo.

    21-View from the Citadel to Moshav Tzippori (foreground) and the Arab village of Hosha'Aya (above and behind). You can't sense the 104 degree heat from this photo.

  • 22-The Druze community of Daliyat al-Karmel. I hadn't been here in decades and requested this out-of-the-way route back to Haifa (see photo/map 1). It was much cooler here on top of the Carmel, just a few clicks from the Mediterranean.

    22-The Druze community of Daliyat al-Karmel. I hadn't been here in decades and requested this out-of-the-way route back to Haifa (see photo/map 1). It was much cooler here on top of the Carmel, just a few clicks from the Mediterranean.

  • 23-Eden checks out the drums

    23-Eden checks out the drums

  • 24-Daliyat al-Karmel

    24-Daliyat al-Karmel

  • 25-Comparing purchases

    25-Comparing purchases

  • 26-Daliyat al-Karmel. This part of the community is a permanent bazaar, souk, market.

    26-Daliyat al-Karmel. This part of the community is a permanent bazaar, souk, market.

  • 27-Our last stop—a baklava shop for sweets and coffee—and looking out toward the Mona Lisa florist (maroon awning). From here, Eli drove us back to the French Carmel, picked up Na'ama (who was staying with a friend), and dropped me at Colony Hotel, well down the hill in central Haifa. All-in-all, a great touring day for me!

    27-Our last stop—a baklava shop for sweets and coffee—and looking out toward the Mona Lisa florist (maroon awning). From here, Eli drove us back to the French Carmel, picked up Na'ama (who was staying with a friend), and dropped me at Colony Hotel, well down the hill in central Haifa. All-in-all, a great touring day for me!

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    8-Geometric floor pattern
    9-Last photo from the Nile mosaic: An Amazon—one of several in a hunting scene.
    10-Interior of Tzippori Synagogue, late fifth century. The town's Christian population was increasing; Jewish population was decreasing. The building is just 68 ft. long by 26 ft. wide—the narrowest synagogue in ancient Israel. On the floor between the columns are inscribed medallions. To the left of the columns is a central hall with a mosaic floor divided into seven rectangular frames, the zodiac at its center.